refrigerator 3 wire relay and overload

Then I hooked it up correctly and the compressor ran !! If you don't understand the wiring of your unit (and it sounds more high-end and more complex than mine), your chances of making it better rather than worse are not too good (and I won't even bother warning your about your own safety). I took the plunge and connected brown to black, the compressor kicked on and I ran it for a couple hours without problems. It will then shut off as soon as the motor is up to the required speed. Regards The compressor started moving back and forth but it won't start. Your blog post was very informative, but can I suggest adding one step to your diagnosis. I have 2 blue wires & 1 orange wire tha comes down from the top of the frig. They are what are called "shaded pole motors". This diagram gives advice of circuit's components as well as their own placements. It's an expensive fridge ($2500) and good quality Jen Air so would rather not replace it unless I have to. I was thinking it was time to go new refrigerator shopping then I remembered reading about the auto-defrost. briggs & stratton what wires go to no 50 & 19 terminal ignition switch? Display comments as This was fascinating precisely because he didn't understand it yet. 3-IN-1 HARDSTART KIT HS410 RCO410--RELAY CAPACITOR OVERLOAD 110 to 125VAC Solid-state Hardstart Relay, includes relay, overload, and start capacitor. How can I check compressor? General Refrigerator and Diagnostic Repair Guide: My question is, could low coolant have worked the compressor harder and burned out the PTC starter? You'll see an absence of any diagnosis on that site, and frequent use of the "parts changing monkey" approach. I found out if i run a small fan behind the refregrator that stop from happening for almost a year ..but it happen again.. disconnect it again 24 hours and it start fine again..iam not expert but what could be the problem the faulty part? The Starter Relay (apologies if this it not the right name) doesn't have any broken parts (as it doesn't rattle), but it does have some slight burn marks, thus I assumed it would be best to replace. You must get the OEM overload and relay for this refrigerator. We’ll call this a bad compressor. This is perfect!! One repair dealer told me not to invest in my 11 yr old fridge. They come out on the same 11 contact edge connector with blue on the first connector, brown on the sixth connector and black on the 11th. I started searching again, and found this page. Some refrigerators, particularly commercial ones have a delay built into them, so they don't get stuck like this. #31: HarryT on 2012-06-01 20:11 But it should be a simple matter to make the fan work and see if that fixes the problem. #6.1.1.1.2: jerome on 2010-02-17 15:27 It has the disk type start realy and another two prong overload. #15.1: Tim M on 2011-07-06 19:42 It holds the parts in place and keeps the live components insulated from you and the critters that crawl behind appliances. #1.1.2: Homayoun on 2019-05-11 21:01 Wiring Diagram and Installation Instructions Printed on Package. Debate is still raging. It wouldn 't so I replaced the overload relay with capacitor and that fixed the problem. Once the PTC "unshorts" the Run Capacitor, the capacitor generates an off-phase kind of thing that I didn't bother to fully understand, I suspect it's about efficiency or not overdriving the motor when it's up to full speed. Overload and Start Relay for Kenmore 106.73182302 Refrigerator. That means they should only get paid for eighty minutes of their day, when all of it is spent working? If it's AC, as Bitron says in its catalog, I suppose putting 240 in it will shut off cooling to the freezer and direct it to the fridge. #51: Alberto on 2014-08-18 18:17 http://fixitnow.com/wp/2005/12/01/refrigerator-warming-up-and-makes-an-occasional-clicking-noise/ http://applianceguru.com/attachment.php?id=3102. Your diagrams and descriptions are really helpful to understand or clarify on what you may be thinking. Time to order the part? Thank you in advance. There are forums specifically on appliance repair; you'd do better there for advice. Can yours restart after a 3 minute break? If at all possible, you should avoid bypassing the refrigerator relay. If shorting the two windings together causes the compressor to run -- you'll know by the fact that the freezer starts to cool down -- that will pretty much confirm for you that your PTC is defective and in need of replacement. Heavy rubber gloves would not be an unwise precaution. (If you could physically grab the motor shaft, you could provide this start-assist torque with your bare hand, instead of using the start capacitor.) The ground is screwed into a bracket on the compressor. Could my problem still be the PTC or Overload? The best and easiest way to do this is to simply pull the two halves of the Molex connector apart (assuming your refrigerator has a Molex connector, as the Admin's does). After accessing the display modes, I was able to get everything up and running again except the compressor, it would kick on and hum for about 15 seconds, then would shut off, all coper line at room temp, evap at room temp and condensor at room temp. There is a third brown that comes from the capacitor and goes directly to one of the pins on the compressor. If you have your old one you could maybe doo a picture version of what i suggested. To test it, you may choose to put a 100 watt light bulb in series with it, then apply the 120 V to the thermistor/light bulb combo; if the thermistor is good (and it probably is if it's not in pieces), you should see the bulb light briefly and rapidly dim. Your article helped me greatly in solving my problem. 4.3 out of 5 stars 14. Wow - Great pictures - matches the back of my fridge exactly. This item is available exclusively to our verified business owners. To add to this for large freezers or AC heat pumps that basically do the same thing, another similar situation is the fan not starting; it has a relay and capacitor too. Fascinating idea. #13: Anonymous on 2011-05-23 04:11 The PTC device, called various things... startup device... ptc relay... startup relay, and others... is known in the electronics field as a "thermistor", which is simply a contraction of "thermal resistor", meaning a resistor that changes it's properties (resistance) with heat, in this case, the heat generated by current passing through it. So, can the compressor be shorted and still make noise like it is running??? I plugged it back in and voila it all started up. #59: roger shingleton on 2018-02-18 21:47 My frig quit after a power brownout. I had trouble with my fridge and knew nothing about the inner workings ( though have a better understanding of repair than the average homeowner and a willingness/desperation to figure things out ). I wonder if this post is still alive. On this blog you’ve been talking about repairing the starting circuit on an otherwise “good” compressor, not a hard starting one. #11.1: Admin on 2011-03-13 17:58 Pardzworld Compressor Relay + Overload Protector Assembly for Godrej 165 LTR to 300 LTR Refrigerators(Multi Color) 3.6 out of 5 stars 16. The fan has 2 black wires. You can't unplug a compressor and plug it right back in and have it run. #36: Parsik on 2012-08-22 12:04 Maybe the compressor is dead (readings 4,8 and 12). Next step is to go to the local Goodwill store, and tell the guys in back that I'll give $5 for any used mini fridge they get that won't run. #7: Rav Shar.. on 2010-04-03 14:13 Robert Hudson, There are plug-in protectors you can buy. Ordinarily, there are two chief types of circuit links. Parallel relationship is much more complicated compared to string one. Thanks again Akom, I'm a Yank from Mississippi, and have a few sports blogs myself. $35.42. Or try taking the old one to an electronics shop and schmoozing the owner to fix it for you on the cheap? You can post things on the forum and get advice from all kinds of techs who are very knowledgeable. pls help me out because i don't know how to connect it with other parts without the relay. This Kit is a Solid State Relay, Overload Switch and Start Capacitor combo. I had thought of letting the intake air pull over the PTC to keep it's temp down and hopefully reduce the time between starts what do you think? That's enough "umph" to get the compressor going, after which time the thermistor rapidly changes state from "short circuit" to "open circuit", depriving the start winding of any more direct application of voltage, since it's no longer needed to sustain the compressor. Thanks again for the great pictures/great explanations. If I do not shake it it will click back off and recycle every couple of minutes. Your Account. It never get hot or even warmer than room temperature. has "disconnected" it. A couple hours finding the solution online? I'd follow your advice and just short out the capacitor if I could find it but I'm afraid it might be part of the control module up top. The reason I write is twofold: It just shuts off every 10min (thermostat) and re-starts.. Of course in your case you probably want to measure the freezer temperature, and not a lot of thermostats go that low - but you can probably find some parts made for that (maybe from something intended for something entirely different). The control board is used for a number of functions, primarily to keep the refrigerator interior at the prescribed temperature regardless of how frequently or infrequently you open the door. I have a Whirlpool side by side. You'll need to start separate threads in the kitchen appliance section and in the manuals request section. A circuit is generally composed by several components. If it is just supplying Alternating Current power then it wouldn't matter which was on which terminal, right? It shouldn't cost anywhere near $70. Rated for 1/4 HP to 1/3 HP compressors. But my fridge is warm and my kids act like going with ice is hell. Your info helped me to verify that my PTC and compressor seemed OK, and gave me the confidence to test them directly. They told me they do not carry any capacitor/overload/start parts and instead have a universal replacement. If you start a thread there please post them here too, so we can follow them. Good luck! Is there a label on the compressor specifying the input voltage? Had I ordered the part already, I might well have attempted his round about to get the thing started... and then this might well have been an even more important post to me... but even without that, I am very thankful that he did put it up here. Try to find diagrams, or spend some time tracing wires with an ohmmeter (while every harness you can find is disconnected, this way you are testing wires and not circuits you may not even realize exist). I dumped out all of the pieces and used the largest two chunks to connect the two sets of contacts. I noticed the compressor wasn't coming on so I was looking all over the fridge for a start capacitor and couldn't find one. Odds are many will run with a $10 3-in-one from Amazon for a 1/12 to 1/5th HP motor. Refrigerators use start and run capacitors, because they have two windings in the motor, running about 90 degrees out of phase. Lines in the diagram show how each element connects to a another. It's also highly advised that engineer draws positive supply and negative supply symbols for better interpretation. Their forums are here: Actually, there wasn't even that noise - it was silent. My search results were that modern refrigs have 10 year design life. I have a Maytag Dual cool and it stopped cooling and had the same symptoms of 10 or so seconds of buzzing, then stop. Refrigerator stopped cooling, lost all contents(BURRRRRP) haven't eaten so much in years LOL, but refrigerator shut completely off, sorta like a cut power cord. On my Kenmore removing the old part took less time than moving the refridgerator. Injunction of two wires is usually indicated by black dot at the intersection of 2 lines. This is a computer geek forum with one article on a particular issue. That means I'll have to put a transformer in and wire it to the valves. Or you could wire in a light switch to the start winding like Akom did with the screwdriver. #22: Ed on 2011-12-01 04:39 #58.1: Admin on 2018-01-04 01:09 #1.2.1: Admin on 2009-09-22 22:57 See the diagram at the top of this article. And thanx for link to "Repair Clinic". It's because the element is directly linked to electricity source. #42: Jay J on 2013-05-01 14:57 ). I wouldn't have attempted that without having gotten my better understanding from this page. a) Your start relay/ overload is fried. #10: nirmalya on 2011-02-22 15:17 Very informative information here. I checked out continuity from the three leads going upstairs to the pcb. New York City is one thing, Youngstown Ohio is another. Then it is very quiet and make very small vibration. My guess would be that the pieces will not last long, but YMMV. www.appliantology.org, Where to find a general repair guide for all kinds of appliances: Some systems may use a start relay rather than a thermistor in place of the PTC, but the function is the same -- to briefly connect the start winding and the run winding together during the time the compressor is attempting to run. The compressor is not starting. THANK YOU ADMIN. pcappliancerepair.com/ Costs about $20USD. If you are talking about the start relay, the guy from the appliance place is probably right: it would work. After the repairman came out and wanted $190 to fix our fridge I did some investigating....I got a new Start Relay Switch, hooked it up wrong and blew a fuse. I'm looking for a start relay & overload for a Samsung refrigerator/freezer part number 213PHYY-53DBHIK. I get 3.3-3.5 on one lead, 3.1-3.3 on the other and 6.2-6.3 on the combined. Just this home made compressor starter device attached directly to the winding terminals. Fast, same day shipping. Are you sure you don't want to just go out and buy yourself a new control board? briggs and stratton electronic fuel management wiring diagram, how to hook up voltage reducer on 48 volt 2010 TXT EZGO golf cart, wiring alternator with internal regulator, adding multiple 3 wire stop / start station, A Wiring Diagram is Essential For an Electrical Network. Got the fridge running and now I can try to get the part and not a new fridge. I taped the loose ends to prevent a short or shock. I put a thermometer in the freezer and it cooled it down right away. If the guy charged $60 for each billable hour, that means that now he brings in $30 for each hour worked. #41: Jay J on 2013-05-01 13:53 #24: Chuck on 2012-01-01 03:09 Thanks for the tips, as well for fellow user RonK for the idea of using the biggest remaining parts from the disc. Great Customer Support. #6.1.1.1.1: Admin on 2010-02-16 21:18 Use a pair of needlenose pliers to remove the wires, then pull the relay off of the compressor. 4) If you're still alive, report your findings. #20: TX on 2011-09-29 17:41 For a regular fridge or freezer it's probably $5-10. The Fridge (standalone Hotpoint RLS150G - 9 years old), suddenly stopped cooling. Repeat every 4 or so minutes. I did not found condensor fan in my fridge...!! THANKS! #33: Carl on 2012-06-21 02:52 I'll take that for now. It took me 24 hours to notice that my Maytag top-freezer refrigerator (PTB2454GR) stopped cooling. She went to the net and found your page - I think its the starter device she said - (You know what I was thinking don't you) Identify the model of the start relay There are different types of relays. The reason you have 3 wires going to the supco instead of 2 is because there is a run capacitor in line with this compressor. . I went back in about an hour to check it and it stopped running. The PTC is intact, looks clean and appears from the test to function correctly. Due to the electric current in each and every part is comparable while voltage of this circuit is complete of voltage in every component. #25: Anonymous on 2012-01-19 16:59 #23: Mike on 2011-12-10 21:48 Food is already spoiled and I'ml living out of a small chest freezer. That's why sometimes when the power blinks off for a second, people's refrigerators stop working. If you read a few posts you'll find many people going out and buying the parts advised only to have them not fix the problem. You haven't mentioned checking the PTC, only the run capacitor. The second hot, which piggy backs from the first hot to a momentary SPST switch acts as your auxiliary power backup or capacitor, but only for a second when you let the momentary switch go it stops sending power to the compressor just like the capacitor does. Or, maybe it is possible that the capacitor went out of spec enough to cause a problem, but not enough to look bad with an ohm meter test. Enjoy the project! He did it as a TEMPORARY fix for one of two reasons. Thanks, worked great and was able to diagnose that it was the relay. It's normally wired such that the two windings are effectively connected together in parallel when cold. I'm having trouble imagining how this device works. Enclosing asterisks marks text as bold (*word*), underscore are made via _word_. My freezer failed yesterday - it was doing the usual cyle on/off routine mentioned here. They are for any devise that you don't want to immediately start after a power burp. It may slowly warm up for days as it cools some but keeps overloading itself. we use 80-110 MFD (µF) Capacitor. The present joins together when the branches meet.

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