how to sand an axe head

Now apply linseed oil to the rag and rub down the entire axe. –Abraham Lincoln. There is something primal about using an axe and the difference between a sharp axe and the axes most men have used is truly startling. Even a dull axe can be quite painful. 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Leather of the mask can be treated by applying any waterproofing wax like Nikwax on Amazon. I got a good mount on it last year, but now it is loose again. We only recommend products we genuinely like, and purchases made through our links support our mission and the free content we publish here on AoM. Tools needed to sharpen an axe are a file, a honing stone, and a strop. Then proceed to submerge it in oil: mineral, linseed, tung. Try to snug it tightly enough that the axe will not wiggle. With an axe, you want to create a consistent bevel from the cutting edge into the axe head, on as narrow an angle as possible. Designing the axe head in the style of a “bearded axe” was for function. Heating was done with an old square “Sunbeam” aluminium kitchen frypan that had been filled with sand and gravel and left turned on for a few hours to heat up. Sand the axe face in one direction only, going back and forth horizontally from the poll (the hammer end of the axe) to close to the bit (the edge). They are joys to use. After working up to your finest grit, liberally wet a paper towel or rag and rub down the handle. Remove any excess with a cloth. Sand or rasp those parts, a little at a time, until the Draw some reference lines through the … Gotta load up a photo. I am not doing so in the photos and, frankly, that is dumb. If you do need to pick up material from the local hardware store, I have purposefully kept this list as spartan as possible. I find that folding a sheet of sandpaper and then ripping it into small squares of 3″ by 3″ is the easiest way to do this. • Last updated: September 24, 2020. 8 or 10 inches is a good size. If it isn't you will have binding occuring at this point when you try to split wood. July 17, 2012 If you poke around whatever woodshop, tool shed, or garage you have access to, you are likely to find an antique axe in the corner somewhere. The geometry behind the edge is the key to a surgical edge on either a knife or an axe. The prices here are usually borderline larceny. Be sure to wear a dust mask so you do not breathe in any steel or rust particles. This is the least important consideration. I encourage you to try to find an heirloom axe to restore. While doing this, make sure you are keeping the whole handle axis straight. 100, 200, 400, 1000 grit and so on. If you do not have linseed oil, just about any non-petroleum oil you have laying around will work. Leave the axe head to soak for about 6-8 hours. There is a clinical term for this opinion: Dead Wrong. Once this was done the next step was to heat the privet stem so it could be bent through 180º to hold the stone axe head. The most important consideration in deciding if an antique axe is a candidate for restoration is to make sure there is life in the bit. A sharp axe is a safe axe. Once it is dry clamp it in the vise. Too much hard steel has been removed from the edge to make this axe worth the investment of your time and your pride. You need to make sure the mask doesn’t get loose or stretch that why better not to apply any oil on it. Usually, the top of the handle is a square-shaped portion. Also, put a drop cloth down if you are doing this in your living room, like I am here, lest you want to face the wrath of girlfriend and her vacuum. We use cookies to ensure that we give you the best experience on our website. A basic C-clamp large enough to secure the head of the axe to a countertop or bench. A lot of people, especially guys, are eager to buy heavy axes. From left to right – a Council Tool Velvicut Hudson Bay style canoe axe with a custom sheath, an antique felling axe with a new handle, an antique L.L. Please remember that linseed oil is flammable and not pleasant to clean up. If it does, just know that it is the most important step. I went perpendicular to the blade face. Instead its best to apply a coat by hand, let dry then wipe off and repeat the process. Attach a circular wire wheel brush to a power drill. If there is some rust already present, apply some oil and use some wire … Once an axe handle has been sanded, it is no longer considered “open pore“. Once dry, work the handle over again with your finest sandpaper. Figure 1. Little is more annoying – or more tiring – when working in the garden or forest than a blunt axe. 3 sheets each of course, medium, and fine grit sandpaper. Many men will have some of these supplies lying around the house. If you continue to use this site we will assume that you are happy with it. Canola, safflower, olive, etc. By doing this you will create a thicker cutting edge which is a little bit less sharp than the 20 degree edge you had before. If you were to design the perfect axe, that axe would be as smooth as a cue ball. Show All Items – Remove the axe head from the vinegar and dry it off. It reduces friction and improves cutting. As well it can attract mildew because, unlike BLO, there are no chemicals added to prevent mildew growth. A brittle or loose handle is easily remedied by replacing the handle. If not, check out your local flea market or junk store. the use that elbow grease... lots of it. Use soft jaws or pieces of scrap wood to prevent the vise from marking up the axe head. many start out like the axe on the left. I prefer a silky smooth handle and find that the swell itself gives me enough control over the axe that I do not have any problems with my grip. Preferably, axe heads are manufactured in two parts. A viking could swing above an enemy’s shield, grab thelip of the shield and lower it to gain an advantage in battle. 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If, however, it is wood – and it should be wood — then you are ready for the last aspect of doctoring your axe. Some people like a bit of texture on the swell (the knob at the end of the handle) and will now use their coarsest paper to rough it up a bit. The axe will require less sharpening and will perform better on the hardwoods that are found in much of North America. 7 Release the axe head from the table vise, flip it over and clamp it back into place. You can work it with finer and finer sandpaper until it gleams. I will post pics of what I did last night. will all be fine. I use the axe 4-5 days a week so it is to be expected, but it is a pain. 80, 220, and 400 is a good selection. A bucket or other waterproof vessel that will hold the axe head. Here goes. I really like this, as you wont have to revisit your axes like you will with WD40. Bottom Line. Some authorities report that the straighter the grain of the handle, the stronger it is. Now for the last step. The basic shape for a Forest Service work ax is the convex pro-file (figure 8–9) with a chisel grind. We request your assistance dealing with this as we do not want to see the site shut down due to violent threats. It is, however, beneficial in any instance. Slack belt sander once stripped. If you apply it to the axe head, it will coat it nicely in what I call rednect clear coat - but it will take some time. - Put the lid on the container. With the success of Gransfors Bruks, boutique axes have mushroomed in popularity over the last decade or so. If your axe has a wooden handle, I recommend that you place it upside down in a bucket or other vessel and pour in enough linseed oil to cover the axe head. Pitting is built up rust that divots the surface of the axe head and gives it the complexion of Manuel Noriega. First remove the mask then apply a thin layer of oil all over the metal of the axe head. If you can find an axe that means something to you, then thank your fortune and keep reading. If Ben Franklin wielded a speckled axe then there is no shame in you doing so, too. The sanding and sharpening stone (OX 33-0200, grain 120/320, RRP € 20.78 including VAT) by OCHSENKOPF are ideal for sharpening tools with mainly flat blades, such as axes and hatchets. Be careful of fires, be they a flame or a spouse angry at the mess you made in the garage. Please see this thread here in Tech Support: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-has-a-zero-tolerance-policy-towards-threats-of-violence-extremism-be-warned.1769537/, (You must log in or sign up to reply here. The additional weight of the ax head provides more force when swinging. - While you're waiting take a look at this image to … After using your axe, you must clean it and properly store the axe to prevent problems. It is a steel wedge that you will be slamming into knotty wood. First, clean the head of any sap or tannins, using steel wool and acetone on the head. In this case, soaking the wood like mentioned previously would not have too much effect. I would advise that you stick with any handle that is snugly affixed to the axe head. NOW you are ready to put an edge on the axe that would delight the Great Emancipator. The important thing here is that the steel and especially the wood soak up oil so they will repel water and protect the integrity of the axe. So there you have it. Or just wants to own the second most important tool, after a good sharp knife, that a man can have. Remove from the forge, sprinkle on more Borax and begin hammering the layers … If the handle is wood, look at the grain of the wood. You will probably be so proud of your axe that you will find yourself repeatedly picking it up for no real good reason. Choosing Axe Head Weight and Handle Length. 2. If your axe is rusty, you’ll want to remove the rust before doing any sharpening. The most important items are a good file and a clamp to secure the axe head. Once the steel is clean, you’re ready to … You will want to sand the handle in the same fashion you did with the axe head. Sharpie the bevel edge to create a guide for filing. The bit is the part that slices the wood fibers and, consequently, must be hard enough to cut without being too brittle to chip. Just like swimmers prefer the slickest wetsuits, axe men prefer the smoothest axe head. This will create a bit of a mess. Other than that, however, the choice of sanding the head is largely a matter of aesthetics. Start with tracing the place where the head will be mounted. First, find a counter or a workbench and lay the poll close to the edge. If your axe handle is fiberglass, you are done. Once you have a suitable axe on which to do-do some sharpening voodoo, the first step is to gather your tools. During a manic bout of self-improvement, Benjamin Franklin convinced himself that a mirror-finished axe would make a fine example of his moral vigor. 7 Romantic, Non-Lame, Can’t-Miss DIY Valentine’s Day Gifts for Your Gal. Doing this once or twice is a good way to clean the steel. The rest of the axe head should be soft and pliable enough to absorb the shock waves emanating from a solid strike to an osage stump or a vampire thorax. Tu… It’s cheap and available everywhere. The counterweight is pointed so it can double as war pick to puncture helmets, if needed. The convex profile enables penetration, splitting force, and ease of re-lease (the chisel grind discussed in the “Ax Head Want to start taking action on the content you read on AoM? Another common finishing oil and one of my favorites is pure Tung oil. But even better, this will raise up burrs on the wood as the handle dries. This may or may not take awhile. Ax Head Profiles. Use sandpaper, applying even pressure and rubbing it from the handle part of the axehead to the blade. This step is not necessary so long as your axe handle is firmly secured in the head. If your head of the axe gets in the way of the sanding take off the axe head with the screwdriver and hammer and when you are ready to put the axe head back on use the hammer and hammer the head back on to the handle. A dust mask for sanding and sturdy gloves. For less than $10, you can frequently find the source material for an axe that will rival a $188 Gransfors Bruks Felling Axe. To fit the axe head’s “eye” (right), the handle needs to be custom-shaped by putting the head on, removing it, and sanding down the high spots. You can see the transition in these photos. However, the process that I outline here will take them to another level, too. Below is an example of a double-bit axe whose bit is too far gone to bother with. This is not to say that a boutique axe is not worth the money. After hours of peddling like Fred Flintstone, Ben decided that pock-marks do indeed give an axe a bit of character. The narrower the V, the deeper the axe will cut. After it dries, you can sand the axehead if you want. Sand the entire surface using a rougher grit 120 is good for this and blast it with air to clear the pores. In operation since 1998, BladeForums.com has led the industry since Day 1. You can repeat this step if you want to make the handle shockingly smooth. After tracing, make a slice cut outside the line. If your local hardware store has wet/dry automotive sandpaper, get it. Strip the axe head down to bare metal. This is why heavier ax heads – that way six, six and a half, and even seven-pound models – are used in wood-splitting and tree-felling competitions. Work your way from the coarsest sandpaper you have up to the finest until you like the results. Since the top of the helve is now flush, tighten the axe handle in the vise with the top facing up. Match the bevel angle and draw the file across the edge. Notice how there is plenty of the hard bit steel to work with and notice how it allows for a continuous edge from the “poll,” the hammer side of the axe, all the way to the bit. You can do that with steel wool, a rust eraser, or coarse-grit sandpaper. Each are remarkably well-made tools. The axe head is now fully seated and mounted to the axe handle. Work your way from the coarsest sandpaper you have up to the finest until you like the results. after you think it's shiny, put it on a buffing wheel. I like throwing off sawdust and really learning the shape of the handle with my hands. By doing this, you will save yourself from blisters when the sweat from your hands wets the handle later. If you want to sand it, start with your coarsest sandpaper. I like to hold my file at about a 10 degree angle. When dry, the handle can be further finished by sanding, scraping with a piece of broken glass, or smoothing with a spokeshave. But I find special pleasure in finding and restoring the keen edge of an antique axe. Dull axes not only make your work harder they can glance off the wood and cause serious injury. A worthy candidate for restoration will include plenty of unmolested bit with which to work. The profile (shape) of an ax head determines if it pen-etrates deeply or shallowly into the wood. If the handle feels sturdy in the axe head and the head does not slip around on the handle, examine further. Apply a small amount of wax and rub the mask with some soft cloth to give it a new shine and look. I have taken an antique axe and treated it with a vinegar bath to show you a great candidate for restoration. What’s the pitting like on the axe head? Secure your axe head with a bench vice. I own both a Granfors Bruks hatchet and a Council Tool camp axe. Once finished, wipe off the oil or vaseline with a dry rag. Take a clean, dry rag or paper towel and wipe down the axe head and handle. I would wager that a significant portion of men reading this article either already own or could easily procure an axe with a meaningful personal history. The excess wedge material can be cut flush to the top of the axe head with a coping saw. Apply the rotary tool to the steel axe head to polish it to a shiny finish. With your tools gathered, you can now begin. This is a little narrower than is usually recommended, but I have an extra step beyond the usual. First envision in your mind what you are going to do. a true mirror finish will only come through working your way up in progressively finer sand paper grits. Using small squares of sandpaper, start with your coarsest grit and work up to your finest. It will take probably 3 days to properly dry, depending on conditions. This article will teach you how to customize any axe into a tool fit for the Illinois Railsplitter himself. A double-cut mill bastard file. Draw an “X” where you want the wedge to be, center of the haft and as close to the poll as is needed. Make sure you sand the axe head in one direction only. Put your file at about an angle between 15 and 20 degrees and file just the cutting edge on both sides of the axe. 2. Now clamp the poll end tightly to the counter. - Put the axe head in the plastic container and pour white vinegar over it until the axe head is completely submerged. Or maybe that is just me. Do not go nuts here. Hold the file with a hand on each edge, with one hand anchored at the top of the axe head. You want something that is as small as possible while still being large enough to accommodate the axe head. BladeForums has ZERO TOLERANCE for extremism or calls of violence. Notice how the bit edge is too stumpy to create a consistent edge all the way through the axe. Repeat 10-15 times to sharpen the edge. A cordless model is not recommended because of the prolonged sideways pressure you will need to apply to the surface of the axe head. Sand the axe face in one direction only, going back and forth horizontally from the poll (the hammer end of the axe) to close to the bit (the edge). In any case, you will want the handle to soak up at much oil as possible. This diagram is a top down view of an axe head. not until at least 1000 grit is done though. This will clean off all the sawdust that clings to the handle. It should be obvious that this bit is simply worn out. A few things I do with an axe handle prior to installing it. The bit is the “blade” of the axe, the part that either is or is supposed to be sharp. The last step is to hang the axe head on the dried handle. You will need to sand any rust off. Focus on creating a straight line from a point about 1 to 1 1/2 inches back on the face of the axe all the way to the bit. After a reprofile, they look like the axe on the right. Hone accordingly. If the head wiggles even a bit, however, it is a potential danger and should be replaced. The wood inside the eye will soak up the linseed oil and swell, creating a tight bond between the head and handle. After you are done soaking the axe, let it dry for at least a day and as long as three or four days. You can do a creditable job using only these two items. start with a vinegar bath and then steel wool. Clean the axe head and apply the polisher properly. If you are lucky enough to compare a Gransfors, a Wetterlings, a Council Tool, or any of the other available high quality axes to the generic trunk-slapper available at your nearby hardware store, you will be amazed at the cutting ability of even a small camping axe. The final step to shaping the axe handle, is cutting the angle bottom on the fawns foot. Using a sledge or hammer, pound the metal wedge slowly into the handle. And, like all aspects of manliness, sharpening an axe requires persistence, patience, and knowledge passed down from one’s predecessors. It had some nasty disc sander gouges, and I wanted to get it smooth, and decided to mod it as well. Some people prefer to use raw linseed oil which does provide about the same protection but takes longer to dry. Leave the oil to dry before refitting the mask. Head masks are normally made of leather. In this way, you will never have to throw away any of the rusted axe heads anymore. I hope that this article inspires you to get and use a quality axe, whether you decide to restore one or purchase any of the great options available now. The head on this Arvika 5 Star has been a PITA to hang. The most common oil used for finishing axe handles is boiled linseed oil. A flat, mill bastard file should be used if your axe is extremely dull or … The Art of Manliness participates in affiliate marketing programs, which means we get paid commissions on editorially chosen products purchased through our links. The more you sand down the handle, the smoother and shinier it will look. ). • Finally, examine the handle. Coat the head of your axe with your fingers, doing your best to cover everything – top, bottom, and sides. So far, that was the 6 step guide on how to remove rust with vinegar from metal axe head and make axe restoration easy. Theoretically, a smoother axe is a better performing axe, but in practice, I do not think it makes a tremendous difference. Last Step. Difference between hardwood and softwood axes Whether Honest Abe used his axe as a potent metaphor to illustrate the primacy of preparation or as his trusted weapon in a covert campaign against vampires, he knew one thing…a sharp axe is the manliest tool. Discussion in 'Axe, Tomahawk, & Hatchet Forum' started by Tin.Man, Dec 21, 2010. Then, hang it up and let it dry. You could even heat up some lard or bacon fat and use that if you wanted the porcine dream of axes. The transition between the cheeks and the eye MUST be smooth. the back of the axe head. Next look to the pitting of the axe head. Fit the Handle onto the axe Head. Editor’s Note: This is a guest post from Josh Tucker. The most important thing here is that the sharp blade of the axe ends up perfectly square, centered, and lined up with the long part of the handle of the axe. Let the oil dry. If you are refinishing a hatchet, a smaller file is appropriate. Most men think that sharpening an axe or knife is all about fiddling with the leading edge. Remember, this is not a scalpel. He paid a blacksmith to shine his axe and the smith agreed so long as Ben was willing to turn the stone with his own leg power. Finally, treat it with a couple of coats of boiled linseed oil, thinned with turpentine. By putting a steeper angle on the cutting edge, you make the bit resilient to chipping and nicks. If you can, let the axe soak in the linseed oil bath for at least a day or two and as long as a week. Once your ends are closed down onto the slab of carbon steel and borax – put it back into the forge and reheat. When you double this, you will get a 20 degree bevel on the axe. But for a first axe or learning axe we can skip that step. 2. – The edges of the poll (the “back” of the axe head, see image 3) were pretty dinged up so I filed them down until they were smooth and flush with the sides of the axe head. You definitely don’t want the axe falling on your toes. … You also want it to be sturdy enough to be freestanding while holding liquid. That is how I bought it. It is a matter of preference. You want to let the bit of the axe extend as far as possible into empty space so that you can file the edge easily. Remove rust using vinegar and fine steel wool. Ideally, the grain will be narrow and running in the same direction as the axe head. It isn’t a bad idea to put several coats on the handle. Any suggestions for tightening the handle fit? After you have corrected the bit geometry on both sides, you are ready to set the keen edge. in: Featured, Manly Skills, Projects, Tools, Guest Contributor “Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe.” Clean the handle of dirt and sap. Any of those axes are a fine investment for a man who spends time in the woods, or even just the suburban yard. When you remove the head, look for burnished wood where the fit is overtight. I find that this is highly rewarding. You can often find an ugly duckling axe just waiting for a gentleman to restore to its true beauty. Paradoxically, you will be blunting the cutting edge of the axe.

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